The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that Executive Director Melanie Grant is stepping down after two years in the role.
John Hall, who has been involved with the organisation since its inception in 2005, will serve as interim executive director while a search for Grant’s successor is conducted. Grant will remain temporarily as a consultant to assist with the transition.
Leadership Transition at RJC
Grant took over as executive director in January 2023, following a ten-month period without a permanent leader after the resignation of Iris Van der Veken. During her tenure, RJC membership grew from just under 1,700 to 2,000.
Hall, a former executive at Rio Tinto and Signet Jewellers, previously served as interim executive director before Grant’s appointment and has extensive experience within the organisation and the industry. His interim leadership is expected to provide continuity as the RJC searches for a permanent replacement.
Key Achievements and Industry Impact
During her time at RJC, Grant oversaw the introduction of a standard for lab-grown materials, revisions to the Code of Practices and Chain of Custody standards, and changes to the organisation’s membership structure. These adjustments gave the RJC the ability to remove members that could bring it into disrepute, addressing previous difficulties in taking action over Alrosa’s membership following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. That situation led to several high-profile brands, including Cartier, Pandora, and Kering’s jewellery brands, leaving the organisation.
Reflecting on her tenure, Grant stated, “When I came in, the organisation was in a precarious position. Working with the team, we were able to get it back on its feet. We are approaching 2,000 members, which is a phenomenal number. So it’s good to go out on a high.”
She also spoke about the challenges of sustainability in the jewellery industry, noting, “As much as we try and make sustainability simple, it isn’t. It’s a complex, ever-moving topic. Outside people say, ‘Why can’t it just happen fast?’ But it takes time to do it well.”
Grant also commented on the role of lab-grown diamond standards, saying, “We felt that the lab industry should adhere to guidelines like everyone else, especially when it comes to claims, because every material has a footprint.”
Looking Ahead
Grant’s departure comes as the RJC prepares to mark its 20th anniversary. The organisation now has members across 74 countries, representing 60% of the global jewellery market.
Over the past two years, Grant has also worked to improve industry collaboration. In 2023, the RJC partnered with Harvard University and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) to hold the first State of the Art Jewellery Summit, an event focused on the future of responsible jewellery. Last year, the RJC worked with the Mineralogical & Geological Museum at Harvard University and GIA on JewelryArts24, a digital art competition exploring sustainability themes.
In her comments on the challenges of implementing industry standards, Grant noted, “The RJC is like an iceberg. People see the standards at its heart but they don’t see the years of preparation and work behind it all. It takes time to get to grips with that depth and to understand why you can’t race through new standards and protocols.”
She also emphasised the need to make ethical practices accessible, saying, “It’s essential that we continue to reach out and ensure RJC standards are accessible, that people can do what they can and get involved without feeling overwhelmed.”
RJC Board Chair and Richline Group CEO Dave Meleski commented on her departure, saying, “While I am sorry for her to step down, I am thankful for all that she has accomplished in her two years as executive director of the organisation, and how she has transformed it positively into a much better place today than when she arrived.”
Grant plans to continue working on industry projects in a consulting role and has upcoming commitments in jewellery education, including teaching at a yet-to-be-announced summer programme. She is also completing The Jewellery Book, a survey of jewellery from the past 200 years, set to be published by Phaidon in 2025.
She commented on the wider industry landscape, stating, “AI will be a huge disruptor, and there again, we can’t be rushed—it’s something that will change the fabric of our reality. We’re also at a point where minerals are being politicised, where we need, more than ever, to come together around consensus. I expect the main trend for the months and years ahead to change itself.”
The RJC now faces another leadership transition at a time when sustainability and responsible sourcing remain key concerns for the industry. The organisation’s ability to continue evolving its standards and engagement efforts will be closely watched.